Donostia / San Sebastián is a truly special travel destination: With 180,000 inhabitants, it is the third-largest city in the Basque Country, but exudes the elegant charm of a wealthy spa town from days gone by. In addition, the Old Town of San Sebastián is not only picturesque, but also a foodie’s dream come true: Almost every visitor quickly falls for the refreshing Txakoli and elaborate Pintxos. And I don’t even want to start talking about the breathtaking beaches. You can find out what else you can experience in San Sebastián in this article.
What you must see in San Sebastián: The most important sights
San Sebastián, or Donostia, as it is called in Basque (officially it is also called Donostia-San Sebastián), has some real highlights to offer. You may also be reminded of one or two spa towns: No wonder, because at the end of the 19th century, the Queen of Spain chose San Sebastián as her summer residence, thus laying the foundation for its social rise. Numerous buildings from this time still adorn San Sebastián today and make the city one of the most beautiful cities in Spain.
1. Old Town (Parte Vieja)
The Old Town is the heart of San Sebastián. Narrow streets, historic buildings and countless pintxo bars give it its charm. In the middle of it you will find the impressive Basilica de Santa María del Coro and, somewhat hidden, the central Plaza de la Constitución, which is surrounded by arcades and small restaurants.
2. Playa de la Concha & Ondarreta
With Playa de la Concha, San Sebastián has an impressive city beach. According to various beach rankings, the crescent-shaped bay of La Concha with its fine sand and turquoise-blue water is even one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. For me as a beach fan, La Concha has therefore been on my bucket list for a long time and really, I was not disappointed.
San Sebastián was the summer residence of the Spanish Queen Maria Christina from the end of the 19th century, and especially along the beach promenade you still have the feeling of being in an elegant spa town like in the old days. The elaborately decorated railing of the promenade with its filigree floral pattern is now one of the city’s landmarks.
A little further away from the Old Town is the Playa Ondarreta. The beach here is also wide and beautiful, and the buildings around it are not as high and massive as on the Playa de la Concha. Perfect for chilling out for a few hours and enjoying the unique landscape.
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3. Monte Urgull
This hill offers you not only a fantastic view over the city and the bay, but also a piece of history. On the summit is the Castillo de la Mota and the Statue of the Sacred Heart. The ascent is pleasant and you can stop again and again along the way to enjoy the view.
4. Monte Igueldo
For an even more spectacular view, you can take the historic funicular to Monte Igueldo. Once at the top, a small amusement park and a view over the entire coast await you.
The funicular is really well preserved, and you should definitely take a ride on it on your trip to San Sebastián. And the view from Monte Igueldo is fantastic anyway.
5. Peine del Viento
The modern sculpture “Peine del Viento” by the Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida is located at the western end of the bay of La Concha. The three gigantic steel sculptures are integrated directly into the rocks and offer a fascinating sight, especially when the waves crash against them.
6. Chillida-Leku Sculpture Park
A little outside of San Sebastián is the sculpture park and museum Chillida-Leku, which is dedicated to the work of Eduardo Chillida. In a beautiful, spacious park you can admire his impressive sculptures in the midst of nature: A place of peace and inspiration.
You can book your ticket for the Chillida Leku in advance here*
7. San Telmo Museoa
The San Telmo Museoa is a museum for Basque culture and history and is located in an old Dominican monastery and offers an exciting exhibition that ranges from prehistory to the modern age. A visit is worthwhile to get a deeper insight into the regional culture.
8. Palacio de Miramar
The royal palace Palacio de Miramar was built at the end of the 19th century for the Spanish royal family. From here you have a wonderful view of the bay of La Concha and feel a bit transported back to the glory days when San Sebastián was an exclusive spa resort for nobles and the wealthy. The surrounding park is perfect for a relaxing walk.
9. Catedral del Buen Pastor
The neo-Gothic cathedral is the largest religious building in the city. With its high tower and beautiful stained glass windows, it is really striking and is one of the most eye-catching sights in the city.
10. Plaza Gipuzkoa
The centrally located Plaza Gipuzkoa is the green heart in the middle of the city. In the well-kept gardens you will find a perfect place to take a little break from sightseeing.
It’s best to grab a coffee at the adjacent Syra Coffee (unfortunately only to go) and enjoy the charming city life of San Sebastián on one of the park benches. Or you can go a few meters further to the casual Koh Tao, where you can sit for longer.
11. Kursaal Congress Center
The Kursaal is located a little outside the actual center of San Sebastián, but is still within walking distance. Large events and congresses take place here regularly, as well as events as part of the world-famous San Sebastián Film Festival.
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Food & Drink in San Sebastián
San Sebastián is an absolute paradise for gourmets. The city has the highest density of Michelin stars per square meter in Europe. If your budget doesn’t stretch to star-rated cuisine, you don’t need to worry. Even with a normal wallet you will be able to sample the local specialties fantastically: San Sebastián is considered the cradle of the Pintxo tradition.
On a pintxos tour through the Old Town
Pintxos are small snacks that are served with drinks like tapas. Often you choose your pintxos at the bar and then get them served at the table. In the Old Town of San Sebastián there are many restaurants that have now elevated their pintxos almost to an art form, that’s how elaborately the snacks are assembled and presented.
Tip: If you don’t know where to start because of the sheer number of offers, I recommend a food tour through the Old Town!
You can book a food tour through the Old Town of San Sebastián here*
Txakoli: The perfect wine accompaniment
Pintxos are perfectly accompanied by a glass of Txakoli (pronounced: Chak-ko-lee); this is a very light, fruity white wine with some carbonation and typical from the Basque Country. Maybe your Txakoli will also be poured in the traditional way: For this, the bottle is stretched high and the wine is swung so vigorously in the glass that it foams up again. A real show!
Cidre: The sparkling cider with show effect
Incidentally, the Cidre, a sparkling wine made from apples, which is also popular in the region, is also poured with a swing. Like Txakoli, Cidre is super refreshing, but lower in alcohol content. Personally, I like Txakoli much better. The Cidre that I tried everywhere in San Sebastián was too sour for me. But as always, it’s a matter of taste, it’s best to get your own picture and try both!
You can get Cidre in many restaurants in the city. But it is also worth taking a trip to a traditional Sidreria like Petretegi. Here you can experience the complete production process, from cultivation to harvesting to the maturation of the Cidre. The large barrels in which the Sidre is stored are particularly impressive, as is the traditional restaurant where you can sample other Basque specialties in a rustic ambience.
Tip: These traditional Sidrerias are located outside the city. If you are not traveling by car, you can also join a tour. It’s more relaxed anyway, because you can then try the Cidre as you please!
You can book a tour to a Sidreria here*
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Food locations in San Sebastián: My tips
Here are a few food tips that you should not miss:
Bar La Cepa This traditional pintxo bar in the Old Town is a classic. Be sure to try the Jamón Ibérico and the delicious Bacalao pintxos (cod snacks).
La Viña Here you get the best cheesecake in town. Maybe you’ve already heard of San Sebastián Cheesecake? It is world famous and literally melts on the tongue. Personally, it is far too creamy and buttery for me, but you should definitely try it.
Mercado de la Bretxa If you love fresh, local products, you should visit this market. Here you will find everything from fresh fish to Basque cheese specialties. Perfect for buying a few treats for a picnic on the beach.
But there are so many more great food locations to discover in San Sebastián! More tips will therefore soon be available in my San Sebastián Food Guide.
Staying in San Sebastián
Finding a pretty hotel in San Sebastián is not difficult. However, I would rather advise against choosing a place to stay in the middle of the Old Town. Especially in the season and on weekends it can get very loud here at night. In addition, the entire Old Town is car-free, so you have to carry all your luggage over cobblestones through the narrow streets to your accommodation.
I can recommend the The Social Hub San Sebastián*. Although it is not directly in the center, you can take the bus to the middle of the city in 15 minutes; you can easily buy tickets contactless on the bus when boarding. The rooms are super spacious and stylish, and in the lobby or restaurant you can work, read or just sit together. In summer there is also a great rooftop bar with pool and views; events take place regularly.
Here you will find more accommodations in San Sebastián*
Events and activities: What you can do in San Sebastián
San Sebastián International Film Festival The renowned film festival attracts film stars and cineastes from all over the world every year in September. A great opportunity to discover new films and maybe even meet a star or two.
Tamborrada: On January 20, the day of Saint Sebastian is celebrated. The whole city is in a festive mood and there are parades with drummers in traditional costumes. An experience you should not miss if you are in the city around this time.
Water sports: San Sebastián is perfect if you are into water sports. The Zurriola beach in the Gros neighborhood, for example, is particularly popular with surfers. Don’t feel like lugging around all the equipment? You can book a full-day surfing trip here*
Or you can try your hand at the Basque national sport, rowing!
Around San Sebastián
In general, the Basque Country is a super exciting region and it is worth spending more time here. You can, for example, easily incorporate San Sebastián into a road trip through the Basque Country and the French Atlantic coast with Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Biarritz is not far away.
Or you can combine your trip with a detour to Bilbao, the equally worth seeing Basque metropolis. Here you will find my guide for Bilbao
Getting to San Sebastián
San Sebastián has its own airport. However, it’s very small, and is mostly only served by Spanish airlines that connect San Sebástian with other domestic destinations.
It is more practical to arrive via Bilbao Airport, where you’ll find a regular bus connection (approximately hourly) to the San Sebastián bus station. Although the bus terminal isn’t located directly in the city center, it can be reached easily by public transport.
