Road Trip through Nova Scotia: Full Itinerary & Insider Tips

Nova Scotia is the second-smallest province in Canada and, admittedly, is sometimes a little overshadowed by other regions of the country when it comes to travel planning. But after a road trip through Nova Scotia, I still can’t tell you why that is: I was pretty impressed!

Fantastic food, unusual accommodation, and the Nova Scotians’ nonchalance made this round trip from Halifax an unforgettable experience. In this article, I share the highlights of the route and some useful insider tips for your trip.

Nova Scotia: A road trip for foodies & wellness seekers

Nova Scotia is a true paradise for hikers, outdoor sports lovers, and nature enthusiasts, thanks to its endless coastline. However, I don’t always want to navigate rapids in a kayak, hike for days, or engage in the most extreme sports. Sometimes, I just want to explore the country and its people, leave daily routine behind, and find inspiration for life and beyond. If luck is on my side, I also get to enjoy the local cuisine—no problem at all in Nova Scotia!

On this somewhat different road trip, which mainly took us around the south coast of Nova Scotia, but also to Halifax and a little further north, we had a pretty good time and discovered some really great spots.

Our route through Nova Scotia:
Halifax – Peggy’s Cove – Mahone Bay – Lunenburg – Liverpool – Summerville Beach – Cape Sable Island – Yarmouth – Digby – Harbourville – Wolfville – Wallace Bay – Halifax

Peggy’s Cove

Peggy’s Point Lighthouse

Just outside Halifax is one of Nova Scotia’s most important and beautiful sights: Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, Peggy’s Point Lighthouse, is one of the most photographed lighthouses in the world.

Incidentally, you will come across lighthouses again and again in Nova Scotia with its endless Atlantic coastline – you can easily discover the most popular ones, such as Peggy’s Point Lighthouse, if you follow the signposted “Lighthouse Route”.

Tip: If you have the opportunity, visit Peggy’s Point Lighthouse at sunrise or sunset. Then it is particularly atmospheric here.

Peggy’s Cove

A stone’s throw from the lighthouse, you can visit the actual fishing village of Peggy’s Cove. Only 30 people live here all year round, but the small harbor with its maritime atmosphere is one of the most beautiful on the south coast of Nova Scotia.

You can also stroll through really pretty souvenir stores and unique arts and crafts studios: if you are looking for original maritime decorations such as old buoys or driftwood, this is the place for you. And even if you don’t have room in your luggage: A visit to The Buoy Shack alone is an experience in itself.

Where to stay in & around Peggy’s Cove

If you want to see Peggy’s Cove at sunrise, you should stay nearby. I can recommend the Oceanstone Seaside Resort and Spa, which is just a few minutes’ drive from Peggy’s Cove. The cozy resort with its own beach was our first port of call straight after arriving at Halifax airport – and it was the best decision!

Here you can start your road trip relaxed, as the Oceantime Seaside Resort and Spa has an outdoor spa area with aromatherapy sauna, steam bath, Kneipp stream, various pools and fire pits to warm up in cooler temperatures.

You can check prices & availability at the Oceanstone Seaside Resort and Spa here

Mahone Bay: Fall vibes & Hollywood charme

From Peggy’s Cove, we continue towards Mahone Bay, a small town straight out of a picture book. The main attraction here is actually the three churches on the bay of the same name, whose three steeples dominate the panorama of Mahone Bay – but the town itself is even more photogenic.

This was certainly also due to the annual Scarecrow Festival held in October, where artistically crafted scarecrows line the streets. Famous people, film characters or even monarchs such as the British King Charles I are sculpted into scarecrows and, together with the slowly changing colors of the leaves, create a colorful street scene in Mahone Bay.

It was here that I realized for the first time that autumn is the perfect time of year for a trip to Nova Scotia: with a bit of luck, the days are sunny and dry – and the autumnal small-town atmosphere is like something out of a romantic Hollywood movie.

What to do in Mahone Bay

In Mahone Bay, you’ll find some lovely locations where you can really enjoy the fall atmosphere: At The Barn, you can snuggle up in one of the comfortable armchairs with a warm Pumpkin Spice Latte and enjoy the cozy atmosphere of an authentic coffee house. If you prefer tea, I recommend the Tea Brewery with its really good selection of loose tea.

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Lunenburg: Art, culture & good food

Lunenburg is a real grab bag: founded by mostly German settlers in the mid-18th century, the once most important port town in the region can look back on a long history.

You’ll find lots of architecture from this period here, such as neat captain’s villas or significant sights such as the Bluenose II, a replica of the famous sailing schooner Bluenose, which has become Canada’s national treasure due to its enormous size and maneuverability.

Tip: The Bluenose II is moored in Lunenburg harbor and can be visited with a ticket for the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic.

Why you shouldn’t miss Lunenburg

So much history has even led to Lunenburg being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. But apart from the important history, you will also find a pretty little town here that has a lot to offer: There’s plenty to discover in terms of culinary and cultural delights!

Whether colorful fish stalls with freshly caught lobster(The South Shore Fish Shack), a Spanish tapas bar(Bar Salvador) or cozy coffee shops (No.9 Coffee Bar ) is wallpapered all over with works by local artists – I could easily have spent a few more days in Lunenburg, also strolling through the many small galleries and vintage stores.

Where to stay in Lunenburg

It’s best to spend the night in the middle of it all, because you shouldn’t miss out on wandering through the bars here in the evening. We spent the night in the B2 Lofts – including a fantastic view of Lunenburg Bay.

Find out more about Lunenburg & all the exact tips here.

From Lunenburg to Yarmouth: beautiful beaches, wild pets and a residential paradise

The next stage had a few more kilometers in store – like everywhere else in Canada, the distances are not insignificant, even in a small province like Nova Scotia. And with the stunning coastal landscape in southern Nova Scotia , there are plenty of beautiful stops, so it’s really hard not to stop every few kilometers.

My favorite spots on the way from Lunenburg to our next longer stop in Yarmouth:

Liverpool

We almost drove through, but sometimes it’s precisely these places that provide the biggest surprises on a road trip. Away from the big sights, Liverpool is a small, easily overlooked town. Nevertheless, I recommend you make a little stop here.

On the one hand, you can experience real local life in Liverpool, and on the other, you can discover a real culinary gem. The Main & Mersey serves Japanese-Canadian fusion cuisine: Really, really good, absolutely unique and doesn’t even break the bank. Definitely worth a visit!

Summerville Beach

Along the rugged, expansive south coast of Nova Scotia, there are some fantastic wild beaches – one of which is Summerville Beach. The almost one kilometer long sandy beach with turquoise blue water is considered one of the most beautiful in Nova Scotia.

The Quarterdeck Grill has the best view of the beach and is also a good option for a culinary stopover.

You can also spend the night in the adjoining Quarterdeck Beachside Villas – sea view included.

Cape Sable Island: A wild surprise

A detour to the southernmost tip of Nova Scotia takes you via the Cape Sable Island Causeway to Cape Sable Island, a small, inhabited island with endless, rugged Atlantic beaches. Perfect for enjoying the fresh breeze.

But Cape Sable Island has another surprise in store: the southern part, known as The Hawk, is home to a small population of deer that settled on the island at some point, although there is no real forest to be seen here. In search of food, however, they roam quite naturally through the front gardens of the few houses on the island – and the residents have become so accustomed to them that they provide them with carrots and other food from time to time.

However, feeding from the car is forbidden, probably so that the animals don’t get used to cars and the risk of accidents increases. But it wasn’t long before we found ourselves having a fun chat on a couple’s veranda, a bag of carrots in front of us and surrounded by wild deer.

If you’re passing by yourself, the local residents are happy to receive food donations. Especially during the hunting season, you will find street vendors selling large quantities of vegetables such as carrots (which are then used in a different way, namely as a lure) – just bring them with you, you will find donation boxes in The Hawk that you can fill.

Yarmouth

Rather quiet and inconspicuous, Yarmouth turned out to be an absolute insider tip for accommodation: the Rennesouth Apartments are located in an ensemble of historic merchant houses, which were in a poor condition and uninhabitable until they were renovated – unimaginable when you see the individual apartments today!

The entire renovation project was so impressive that the process was documented in its own television show on the HGTV channel.

What to do in Yarmouth:
YarmouthFarmer’s Market Every Saturday there is a small farmer’s market with lots of handicrafts and delicacies from small producers. You’ll find the best and most unusual souvenirs here.
Rudder’s Brew Pub Cozy pub with countless types of beer. Perfect for immersing yourself in small-town life.
Warehouse 87 Antiques Emporium Small antiques paradise for vintage lovers, right on Water Street

Digby: The capital of scallops

Having already eaten some pretty tasty lobster dishes, but still not a complete lobster (I just didn’t dare), I had to try another of Nova Scotia’s seafood specialties. Digby calls itself the“ scallopcapital of the world“, and if not here for the first time, then where else?

Admittedly, I haven’t really become a fan of scallops, but the rustic ambience of The Crow’s Nest with a view of Digby harbor and the Bay of Fundy is worth the visit. (And if you’re not a seafood eater or vegetarian, you’ll also find what you’re looking for on the menu).

Harbourville: Close to nature

Harbourville consists mainly of a small harbor and is probably not often on the agenda of visitors to Nova Scotia. But just a few minutes’ drive away, you’ll find a real insider tip if you just want to relax and enjoy nature.

Harbourville Villa West is the perfect place to recharge your batteries. There is nothing but nature around the building with 2 large maisonettes: the unobstructed view of the Bay of Fundy is breathtaking, and during the day you can even see bald eagles flying over the house.

The entire house is very open and bright, which is a real blessing; being able to lie in bed at night and look up at the sparkling starry sky, which is completely free of distracting light sources all around, is simply magical.

Wolfville: Juicy apples and a bit of magic

In Wolfville, we really immersed ourselves in the Nova Scotia fall atmosphere once again: just in time for harvest season, we trundled into this pretty little town that stole my heart a little.

There is a lot of agriculture in the Wolfville area. That’s why you’ll find lots of street vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as pumpkin patches, which are large meadows with the most beautiful pumpkins in all kinds of colors. Or you can simply pick your own fruit – pick up a basket from the small market at the front of the street and disappear into the thicket of fruit trees. Home-picked apples are simply the tastiest!

In Wolfville itself, you can wander through the small pubs, discover cozy coffee shops like the Charts Café or unusual stores like the Realm.

Wallace Bay: Wine & Wellness

We still had a little time left on our road trip, so we made a detour to another area of Nova Scotia: the Northumberland Shore is known for its long beaches, where the water is warmer than in other places due to the geographical location (unique given the otherwise rather cold Atlantic temperatures) and one of Nova Scotia’s most famous wineries.

At Jost Vineyards, you can stroll around the winery and taste one of Nova Scotia’s best wines.

However, it was already too cold for swimming in the sea in the fall, so we had a good time at the luxurious Fox Harb’r Resort right by the sea. Situated in the middle of a golf course (an absolute tip for golfers and those who want to become one – unfortunately we didn’t have enough time), you are surrounded by greenery and can relax in the large spa with sea views during the day and indulge yourself in the restaurant in the evening.

Halifax: Nova Scotia’s big city with a big heart

As the capital, Halifax is naturally much busier than other cities in the province. Here you can expect a big city with countless shopping opportunities and great cafés and restaurants. Nevertheless, Halifax also has the laid-back charm of Nova Scotia, so we were able to end our eventful road trip here in a relaxed manner.

So make sure you leave some time for a little sightseeing tour through the city and explore edgy vintage stores like Elsie’s Consignment Clothing, colorful street art like at the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 or innovative gastronomic concepts like the Latin American bar Sofia.

Where to stay in Halifax: Muir

Click here for the detailed Halifax guide with all my tips

Map with all locations

I have saved everything on this map so that you don’t have to write down all the locations individually. You can also load it into your Google Maps app – so you have all the locations to hand when you’re out and about.

Practical tips for your trip to Nova Scotia

What is the best way to get to Nova Scotia?

If you want to travel to Nova Scotia from Germany, there’s good news: You can fly directly from Frankfurt to Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, with Condor. As Frankfurt is a huge hub with connections to countless European cities, a flight with Condor might also be a good alternative if you’re starting your trip outside Germany. The flight itself is really short for a transatlantic flight with a maximum of only 7 hours! We took off from Frankfurt in the early afternoon, landed in Halifax at sunset and set off straight away.

Condor flies to Halifax with a brand new A330neo, and even in Economy Class the service is very good in terms of comfort and in-flight catering. However, it is also worth keeping an eye out for possible upgrades.

Sometimes the price difference to Premium Economy Class or Business Class is not as big as you might think. If you don’t want to commit yourself directly when booking, that’s not a problem. Depending on the booking situation, you can even spontaneously book an upgrade at the gate shortly before the flight (and sometimes get a good bargain!).

What is the best time to travel to Nova Scotia?

Good months for a trip to Nova Scotia are from June to September. The climate is mild to warm in summer. If you want to experience an impressive Indian summer, October is also a good month to travel.

Nova Scotia’s landscape takes on its brightest colors and you can get into the autumn mood in the individual towns with events such as the Scarecrow Festival in Mahone Bay or preparations for Halloween.

Do you need a rental car?

In fact, yes. Traveling through Nova Scotia without a rental car is difficult. There are bus connections, but the distances are not to be underestimated. In addition, some of the places mentioned are not accessible by public transportation.

However, driving in Nova Scotia is very easy. Traffic is relaxed and parking is never really a problem, even in larger towns. Canada uses the metric system, so unlike traveling in the USA, you won’t have any problems converting miles to kilometers.

Even in Halifax, you can cruise through the city in a relatively relaxed manner; in the city center, you may just have to look for the best place to park your car overnight, depending on your accommodation – our hotel offered a space in the hotel’s own underground car park for an extra charge.

It also makes sense to use the car for Halifax. The airport is located just outside the city, and it takes 35 to 40 minutes to get to the city center by car alone. By public transport, the journey takes more than an hour. It is therefore worth reserving a rental car for your entire stay, even if you don’t necessarily need it for sightseeing in Halifax.

By the way, a German/EU driver’s license is sufficient for renting.

You can book rental cars from Halifax here*

Do I need a visa for Canada?

If you have a German passport, you must apply for an electronic travel authorization (eTA) before entering Canada. The eTA costs €7 and is valid for up to five years, depending on the expiration date of your passport. You can also use it for subsequent trips to Canada.

You can also download the ArriveCAN app ( iOS / Android ) for customs clearance. This may save you longer waiting times when entering the country.

This article was written in collaboration with Tourism Nova Scotia.