Drunk in Porto: The port wine and me.

It’s so beautifully called “Vinho do Porto” in Portuguese. And while you’re there, what could be more natural than a port wine tasting in Porto? Port wine is, after all, one of Porto’s oldest export hits and THE city’s signature product. Porto lies on the Douro River, and further east along the Douro lies the Douro Valley. This is where the grapes for this special wine are grown and pressed. In the past, boats known as “rabelos” transported the wine to Porto, to the most beautiful port wine cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia. There, the wines continue to age—for years or even decades, depending on their quality. By the way, today tourists cruise along the Douro on the Rabelos instead of transporting port wine—and I’ve heard it’s really worth seeing.

Are you planning a trip to Porto?
If so, I highly recommend my Porto Travel Guide!

What is port wine?

Actually, I’m not a big fan of port wine. Port wine is one of the sweet wines, they say, but it makes me sick to my stomach because it is so strong and reminds me more of cognac. And wine-wise, I’m generally not an expert. Although I’ve had plenty of opportunities to taste good wines, my wine knowledge doesn’t get beyond a simple “I like it” or “I don’t.” I’m sure they could slip me wine from a tetrapak and sell it as the most expensive wine ever. But I like to get to know new things on my travels, and Porto doesn’t work without port wine!

When and how do you drink port?

Traditionally, port is enjoyed as a digestif and paired with a cheese platter or dessert. It is served in tulip-shaped glasses that are slightly smaller than standard red or white wine glasses. Since port has a high alcohol content, only small amounts—typically about 80 to 120 ml— are usually served. However, port is also excellent when served chilled as an aperitif, as an accompaniment during a meal, or as an ingredient in cocktails.

Port wine tasting in Porto: Where to go for a good port wine tasting?

The friendly hotel employee recommended Graham’s Winery to me. Because when you stand on the banks of the Douro and look across to Vila Nova de Gaia, the dilemma becomes clear: one port wine winery follows another. Whether it’s Sandeman, Graham’s, Ferreira, Taylor’s, or Calem—one neon sign competes with another for attention. All the wineries offer guided tours followed by tastings; the Sandeman grounds even feature a hotel or hostel.

Guided tour of Graham’s Lodge

The tour of Graham’s winery is offered in different languages and is really informative: after a short film about the production in the Douro Valley, a tour guide leads you through the winery.

Port wine tasting with Tawny and Ruby

By the way, I ended up in the Portuguese-speaking tour with a handful of Brazilians. Which made it all the more amusing, because we Brazilians are communicative by nature and even more so after three glasses of port wine. In summer it must be even more beautiful up here: from the in-house restaurant you have the best view over Porto! Incidentally, I could taste out differences despite my untrained palate: I am more Tawny than Ruby. Further insight: Three port wines – and I’m blue.

The tour includes three different varieties, but connoisseurs can also go all out and sample the crème de la crème of port wines—provided they have the necessary cash on hand, since the wine tasting alone can cost as much as 200€.

Prior reservation is strongly recommended in high season!

➜ Tickets for Graham’s Port Lodge* (with food pairing)

How do you get to Graham’s Lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia?

Vila Nova de Gaia is located on the other side of the Douro River. If you’re staying in downtown Porto, it’s a bit of a trip to get to Graham’s Lodge by public transportation. However, with the Porto Card*, you can use public transportation—including the metro and buses—for free. There are many port wine cellars in Porto, but Graham’s Lodge is particularly beautiful with its impressive view of Porto.

If you don’t feel like looking up addresses and directions, you can also join a walking tour and visit several wineries in a single day:

➜ Walking tour of Vila Nova de Gaia with several port wineries*

Other port wineries in Vila Nova de Gaia

If you don’t feel like or don’t have time to drive all the way out to Graham’s (I took the bus there and strolled back along the Douro in the evening—but it’s quite a distance), you can also visit the Calem wineries and sample some port there! Calem is also located on the other side of the Douro, but right on the riverbank and near the Ponte Dom Luís I.

➜ Fado evening with port wine tasting at Calem*