Jerusalem: A Personal Travel Diary.

My trip to Jerusalem had nothing to do with religion, even though most tourists make the pilgrimage there for religious reasons. I have absolutely nothing to do with that. Especially since a large part of my Brazilian family has been engaging with the subject more and more intensely, and their own religion has become ever-present.

That bothers me a lot and is increasingly becoming a breeding ground for conflict, because everyone secretly thinks their faith is the only true one. It’s a trend that’s currently taking place in many areas of Brazil—and sometimes I worry that this religious fervor might eventually take a turn for the worse. Perhaps that’s why the trip to Jerusalem was so intense for me. So, just to be clear: This travelogue about Jerusalem is very personal; some people may experience it differently—but that’s just part of traveling.

Travel to Tel Aviv: Adventure Israel

My trip just wasn’t off to a good start. I flew directly from Germany to Tel Aviv, and—probably just because I wanted to find out—I chose Israel’s national airline. Were the security measures there really that different? Indeed they were. Completely unprepared as always, I found myself just before the check-in counter being subjected to an intense interrogation about my travel plans and my living situation in Berlin.

That intense conversation felt so much like an interrogation to me that I feared my interlocutor would throw me into a secret airport dungeon at any moment and let me rot there. For whatever reason. But he didn’t, after all. Drenched in sweat, I then had to have my luggage subjected to a thorough security check, and eventually I was deemed worthy of checking in. But my mood was at rock bottom, and I would have loved nothing more than to go home crying. What a great start.

Read even more tips and travel stories about Israel on my Israel blog

I had never really given Jerusalem a second thought before. It was actually just a coincidence that led to this trip. So I arrived there early in the morning, relatively unprepared. And quite surprised. Jerusalem is THE center of three world religions that, as we know, don’t always get along. But I could feel that tension throughout the city, all the time. It’s quite curious, considering that all these religions preach love and peace.

What not to miss in the old town

Jerusalem’s Old City is peppered with world-famous sights that you must see. You can find the most important ones here, but I also recommend my great Jerusalem Guide. There you will find more sights outside the Old City and many practical tips for your trip to Jerusalem.

#1 The Church of the Holy Sepulchre

The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is tucked away, almost in the heart of the Old City, and if it weren’t for the trails left by thousands of tour groups pointing the way, one would hardly suspect that one of Christianity’s greatest shrines lies behind its unassuming facade.

Jesus is said to have been crucified at the spot where the church was later built. And his tomb is said to be located here. Because the Church of the Holy Sepulcher is therefore significant to just about every Christian denomination, a corresponding number of interest groups have been squabbling over it since time immemorial. At some point, this led to the keys to the church being passed down within a certain Muslim family—every morning and evening, someone comes with the key to unlock or lock the church. Crazy.

#2 The Wailing Wall

The Western Wall, along with the Temple Mount and the golden dome of the Dome of the Rock, is arguably one of the most famous postcard views of Jerusalem—and, indeed, probably of Israel as well. It is a pilgrimage site for (Orthodox) Judaism. For this reason, men and women pray separately here.

Access is restricted: You have to pass through one of the security checkpoints first. The scene couldn’t have been more fitting when a group of teenagers suddenly appeared, all cheerfully singing “Hava Nagila” and dancing in a circle.

#3 The David’s Citadel

The Citadel of David, next to the Jaffa Gate, not only features an informative museum on the city’s history but also offers a great view of the Old City. In the evening, there’s also an open-air light show at the citadel. It might sound like tourist kitsch, but it’s actually quite impressive against the unique backdrop of the fortress. (Admission prices and opening hours are available on the museum’s website.)

#4 The labyrinth of alleys in the old town

Jerusalem’s Old City consists largely of small, narrow alleys, and at every turn in this labyrinth of alleys, you feel as though you can experience the history of the city—oh, what am I saying, of all humanity!—firsthand. If only these massive walls could speak. You can easily spend a whole day in the Old City, just letting yourself wander. You almost have no other choice, because sooner or later your sense of direction will fail you anyway in the maze of alleys.

Here’s the great thing: Anyone who thinks the Old City is just a place full of tourist trinkets is mistaken. Sure, there are plenty of souvenir shops—which is no surprise, given the number of tourists who stream through Jerusalem’s Old City every day. But there’s also real, local life going on there!

The Jerusalem Syndrome and Me

In fact, I felt more and more uncomfortable with every passing hour during my stay in Jerusalem. Rarely has a place unsettled me so much. Is it an overdose of religion? I rushed back home because I just wanted to get away. And that’s even though I would actually have liked to see more of the city to get a better picture of it. I was there for an event sponsored by the local tourism office, which tended to take us to places that left us with a rather incomplete picture of Jerusalem—I think you know what I mean.

In any case, behind closed doors, I was repeatedly advised in whispers to go check out the Palestinian side as well—they said it was completely different. Be that as it may, I found the atmosphere in Jerusalem so oppressive—or rather, my own personal mood—that I could only stand it for a few days. However, as a colleague who knows Israel well later assured me, strong reactions among visitors to Jerusalem are not uncommon.

Some people have miraculous visions, receive all kinds of spiritual messages, or simply have a meltdown because of all the religion—just like me. The Jerusalem Syndrome actually refers to a mental disorder in which those affected suffer from religious delusions—it sounds amusing, but somehow Jerusalem does give off a strange energy, so it’s no wonder that some people are so strongly drawn to this city.