Seoul: Gyeongbokgung Palace in autumn

In the right place at the right time. It is freezing cold, but the day is sunny. And it is just the right, unfortunately far too short phase, when the autumn leaves still shine from the trees in their full color splendor. I wonder if the gardeners of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul planted the trees after that? It almost looks like it, because this cheerful warm mixture of all imaginable leaf colors is unique and too beautiful to be just a coincidence. Or it may simply be because the palace complex itself is very plain. No pomp, no gold, no flaunted wealth. And quite a lot of gray. Modesty is probably something original to Korea.

Tradition at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul – or: how to get in for free!

But not only the sea of leaves around the palace is colorful, but also its visitors: Many young Koreans in the most amazing traditional costumes buzz through the complex, taking selfies or draping themselves giggling in front of their cameras for the most beautiful photo. They also proudly let themselves be photographed with strangers, because Koreans are really happy from the bottom of their hearts when tourists are interested in their culture.

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No one really knows who came up with the idea of dressing up or what it’s really all about. But everyone’s having fun. And admission is free. Because if you show up in traditional dress, you don’t have to pay to get in! That said, the money saved is usually spent beforehand on a rental fee at one of the nearby costume rental shops—but who cares.

By the way, I didn’t pay any admission either—I wasn’t even in costume. On my way to the ticket booth, a Korean woman came up to me and pressed a ticket she’d bought by mistake into my hand. Why? Just because. “Take it as a gift. You look so nice. And enjoy Korea!” she said, and ran off happily. What a nice, cheerful people. Seriously.

Bukchon Hanok Village – an ancient village from the Joseon Dynasty

Near the palace is also Bukchon Hanok Village, a small, hilly neighborhood with well-preserved houses that dates back 600 years. Despite the crowds of tourists, it’s actually quite peaceful here. There’s a sign on just about every front door asking for quiet—and, fascinatingly, everyone obeys it, moving silently and deliberately through the narrow alleys.

In the alleys themselves, there are few, if any, restaurants, shops, or similar establishments. But a little further down, you’ll find charming little streets with the most idyllic cafés. Stop in, have some tea, and lose track of time.